How Two Hospital Workers Brewed Up One of New Hampshire’s Favorite Breweries

About two decades ago, Mike Holland was cooking meals in kitchen of North Country Hospital, while Darrell Bodnar was troubleshooting IT issues upstairs. They both loved beer and sports. After hours, their real passion was brewing. What started as a kitchen experiment with hops and grains soon became their own business—Copper Pig Brewery. 

Now, as the Lancaster-based brewery approaches its seven-year anniversary, it stands as one of New Hampshire’s favorite craft beer destinations.

Holland and Bodnar began brewing in Holland’s kitchen in Guildhall, Vermont, experimenting with small batches of pale and brown ales, and teaching themselves the trade with podcasts and books. 

“A lot of it was talking to brewers and reading” Holland said. “I looked at grains almost like spices.”

Eventually, Holland transformed his house into an informal tasting room, installing six taps and hosting themed parties. One of the most memorable was a 1970s-themed gathering that drew 60 to 80 guests, ranging from hospital housekeepers to surgeons.

“The parties spread by word of mouth,” Holland said. “There were surgeons playing horseshoes or badminton, and we used to play this game, trackball. It didn’t matter who you were—whether you were in housekeeping or the kitchen—it was a lot of fun.”

Their beer was good enough to enter local competitions and friends told Holland and Bodnar over and over, “You should do this for a living.”

Eventually, they listened.

Launching Copper Pig

To fund their brewery, they thought outside the box.

Instead of seeking traditional bank loans, Holland and Bodnar turned to their friends at the hospital, asking for contributions to their $5,000 fundraising campaign. In return, donors became part of their Founders Club and Foundation Club, earning 3% interest to be repaid over five years (which they ultimately repaid in just four). Early supporters also received perks like free swag and growler discounts.

“It was like early crowdsourcing,” Holland said. “Doctors are so competitive. Once one doctor heard about it, two others contacted Darrell and said, ‘We want in on this.’”

What they expected to take months was funded in just a few weeks.

They settled on the name Copper Pig Brewery (a name on a weathervane on Holland’s barn), and found its home in a former bank in Lancaster. With help from a Coös Economic Development Corporation (CEDC) grant, they converted the drive-up window area into a patio with sunshades and a new outdoor bar. Inside, they turned the old bank vault into a cooler, restored the original brickwork, and preserved bank books and artifacts, giving the space a unique speakeasy vibe.

Today, Copper Pig offers four flagship beers: a New England Double IPA, an Irish Red, a Porter, and a Czech Pale Lager. It is also one of the few breweries in the region producing cider.

The Art of Brewing

Drawing from his culinary background, Holland approaches brewing like cooking—experimenting with grains and hops as if they were spices, tweaking recipes to get a perfect balance.

“What I love about brewing is the ability to change things to your own style,” Holland said. “With beer, you can take a classic brown ale and make it roastier or maltier, tailoring it to what people like. There’s so much variety in flavors beyond the pale lagers that dominated the market in the ’70s and ’80s.”

Brewing beer, however, is a far cry from making hospital food.

“Hospital food gets a bad rap because it’s so bland,” Holland said, explaining that it has to be. 

“So many patients are on sodium or cholesterol restrictions, so there’s very little room to jazz it up.”

Navigating Challenges: Supply Chain Issues and Tariffs

Despite Copper Pig’s success, the beer industry faces mounting challenges. Rising ingredient costs, supply chain disruptions, and unpredictable tariffs have put pressure on breweries nationwide.

Trump’s imposed 25% tariffs on aluminum and steel goods from Canada will impact the price of aluminum beer cans. 

John Anderson, owner of  Dam Brewhouse in Campton, said the cost of glass bottles has doubled since October, and he expects packaging materials—both cans and bottles—to become even more expensive.

Anderson used 8,000 cans for his business last year and each cost 25.7 cents. The 25% tariffs would increase the cost of each can by 6-7 cents.

But Anderson is most concerned about the economy. In March, J.P. Morgan economists estimated the risk of a recession at 40%, up from 30% at the beginning of the year, according to USA Today. A Reuters poll found that 95% of economists in the US think recession risks have increased due to the talk of tariffs.

“We offer a premium product, and with increased price pressures, we may see a substantial decrease in sales,” Anderson said.

Holland, meanwhile, doesn’t do any canning currently and he has put off plans to can his cider until there’s more certainty with the tariffs. 

“Cost increases and rising grain prices are being passed on to consumers, driving up the price of a four-pack to the point where beer may fall out of favor with those looking for more value,” he said. 

The brewing industry is also feeling the effects of shifting consumer preferences, as more people opt for healthier lifestyles. 

As New Hampshire Craft Beer Week is coming up April 3-12, and breweries across the state are offering discounts and special promotion, CJ Haines, executive director of the NH Brewers Association, emphasized it’s more important than ever to support local beer.

“Rising ingredient and material costs, supply chain woes, and unpredictable tariffs continue to put pressure on breweries,” Haines said. “Despite these hardships, our brewers remain resilient—continually innovating and adapting to ensure their doors stay open and their communities stay engaged.”